{"id":673,"date":"2017-09-15T02:12:25","date_gmt":"2017-09-14T21:12:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/?p=673"},"modified":"2017-09-20T03:26:59","modified_gmt":"2017-09-19T22:26:59","slug":"aziz-mahmud-hudais-gomlek","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/aziz-mahmud-hudais-gomlek\/","title":{"rendered":"Aziz Mahmud H\u00fcdai&#8217;s talismanic g\u00f6mlek"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1.png\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-720 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-1016x1024.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"620\" height=\"625\" srcset=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-1016x1024.png 1016w, http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-150x150.png 150w, http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-298x300.png 298w, http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-768x774.png 768w, http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-88x88.png 88w, http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-973x981.png 973w, http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Aziz-Mahmud-Hudai-gomlek-1-508x512.png 508w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Aziz Mahmud H\u00fcdai, one of the most famous saints of the Ottoman Empire, was born in 1541 and died in 1648.\u00a0Some of his clothes, including three h\u0131rkas (dervish overgarments) and a long talismanic (<em>tilsimli<\/em>) g\u00f6mlek inscribed with mystical formulae, were preserved.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Fabric:<\/strong> White cotton cloth. \u00a0The original source isn&#8217;t more forthcoming than that: &#8220;Beyaz pamuklu bezden.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Construction Details:<\/strong> The body of the\u00a0g\u00f6mlek is cut from a wide length of cotton, with the seams falling about 2\/5ths of the way down the sleeves. The skirts are cut in an A-line from the armpits, with vertical seams in line with the sleeve seams. This layout method is the same one used with the backs of the\u00a0extant kaftans: Center the shape of the garment on the fabric, cut it out, and fill in the missing bits at the edges with waste fabric.<\/p>\n<p>There are no underarm gussets. A wedge has been sewn into the armpit of the left sleeve, but it appears to be a mend rather than a gusset.<\/p>\n<p>The sleeves are short, and the ends are slightly concave.<\/p>\n<p>The collar\u00a0isn&#8217;t cut into the rear panel at all, which is the\u00a0standard cut for extant overgarments. The front slit is deep, but not as generous as the slits seen in paintings by Turkish artists.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Source:<\/strong> Nurhan Atasoy. <em>Dervi\u015f \u00c7eyizi:\u00a0T\u00fcrkiye&#8217;de Tarikat Giyim-Ku\u015fam Tarihi<\/em>.\u00a0T.C. K\u00fclt\u00fcr Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131, 2000, p.\u00a045<\/p>\n<p><strong>Date:<\/strong>\u00a0First half of the 16th century (my personal guess)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Aziz Mahmud H\u00fcdai, one of the most famous saints of the Ottoman Empire, was born in 1541 and died in 1648.\u00a0Some of his clothes, including three h\u0131rkas (dervish&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":720,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"image","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[58,60],"tags":[117,102,79,75,88],"class_list":["post-673","post","type-post","status-publish","format-image","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-extant-garments","category-underthings","tag-date-1600-1624","tag-date-1625-1649","tag-front-view","tag-male-garment","tag-no-collar","post_format-post-format-image"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/673","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=673"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/673\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":747,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/673\/revisions\/747"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/720"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=673"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=673"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=673"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}